Unisex hat in a simple cable pattern shows off the beautiful colours in handspun yarn. This was the first time I had bought handpainted fibre to spin, and watching the colours change as I knitted this up was fascinating. The decreases at the top make a star shape and I added a few tiny star-shaped buttons as a cute detail. The buttons could be omitted (and perhaps more sober yarn used) for a manly version. I also include instructions to avoid the “scalloped” look at the edge. The hat is very stretchy, and will fit more or less any head. While the yarn in the picture is my own handspun yarn, I have suggested several commercially available alternatives.
Yarn: Handspun yarn from handpainted fibre or for example: Malabrigo merino worsted, Cascade yarns sierra, Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran. You need 120m in total.
Needles: 5 mm/US 8 dpns
Gauge: 18 stitches = 4” in stocking stitch.
Size: Stretches to fit most heads.
Extras: One 5mm / US 8 cable needle, and some buttons and embroidery thread if desired.
CO = cast on
k = knit
p = purl
dpn = double pointed needle.
pm = place marker
slm = slip marker
ssk = slip two stitches knitwise, then knit them together with left hand needle.
K2tog = knit two stitches together
C6F = slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold to the front of your work, knit the next 3 stitches from left-hand needle, then the three stitches from the cable needle.
Round 1: *k6 p2* to end of round.
Round 2: As round 1.
Round 3: *C6F p2* to end of round.
Round 4: As round 1.
CO 120 stitches over 3 dpns and join in the round. Work in Cable Pattern until hat measures 6.5”. You might want to make it a little shorter/longer if you have a particularly small/large head. Also, if you want to avoid the scalloped look at the edge of the hat, work in k6 p2 rib for 4 rounds before starting the cable pattern. After 6.5”, ending on round 3, work decreases as follows:
Decrease set up row: k3 pm *k3 (p2 k6) twice p2 k3 pm* to last 21 stitches, k3 (p2 k6) twice p2.
It's easier to give instructions if the start of the round is the first marker, so k3 and we'll start rounds at the marker from now on .
Decrease round 1: *slm k2tog k1 (p2 k6) twice, p2 k1 ssk* to end of round (110 stitches).
Decrease round 2: *slm k2 (p2 k6) twice, p2 k2* to end of round.
Decrease round 3: *slm k2tog (p2 C6F) twice p2 ssk* to end of round (100 stitches).
Decrease round 4: *slm k1 (p2 k6) twice p2 k1* to end of round.
Decrease round 5: *slm k2tog p1 k6 p2 k6 p1 ssk* to end of round (90 stitches).
Decrease round 6: *slm k1 p1 k6 p2 k6 p1 k1* to end of round.
Decrease round 7: *slm k2tog C6F p2 C6F ssk* to end of round (80 stitches).
Decrease round 8: *slm k7 p2 k7* to end of round.
Decrease round 9: *slm k2tog k5 p2 k5 ssk* to end of round (70 stitches).
Decrease round 10: *slm k2tog k4 p2 k4 ssk* to end of round (60 stitches).
Decrease round 11: *slm k2tog k3 p2 k3 ssk* to end of round (50 stitches).
Decrease round 12: *slm k2tog k2 p2 k2 ssk* to end of round (40 stitches).
Decrease round 13: *slm k2tog k1 p2 k1 ssk* to end of round (30 stitches).
Decrease round 14: *slm k2tog p2 ssk* to end of round (20 stitches).
Decrease round 15: *slm k2tog ssk* to end of round (10 stitches).
Cut the yarn leaving a 10'' tail. Thread this through the remaining stitches and pull tight. Sew over the hole a couple of times and weave in any loose ends.